I’m alone on the bluff above the magnificent Fulda Cathedral. I’m no ghoul – at least, I don’t think I am. Still, I can’t take my eyes off the large slab of gray slate that’s bolted to the sandstone blocks of Saint Michael’s chapel. It’s quite the experience. Rows upon rows of skulls are carved in stone – large skulls, smaller skulls, adolescent, child and infant. The skulls are carved in relief, with such gentle detail that I think I can distinguish between male and female. On the far right, a stylized monk/angel points heavenward. Saint Michael’s is the oldest Holy Sepulcher church in Germany and dates back an incredible 1200 years.